With children under five, Fjäderholmarna and Vaxholm are the islands that work best: a short boat trip, paths that can take a pram and the option of heading home when energy runs out. Grinda and Sandhamn are lovely from around four, once your child can walk a fair way on their own and sees a long boat trip as part of the adventure.
It is ten o'clock on a Saturday in July. The pram is in the hall, the bag is packed with nappies, sandwiches and sun cream, and the two-year-old has already had one meltdown. The question is whether this becomes a lovely day on an island or three hours on a boat with a child who wants to go home. The difference lies almost entirely in which island you choose and how long the trip is, not in how you pack.
Which island suits which age?
| Island | Suitable from | Pram | The journey |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fjäderholmarna | Babies | Yes, gravel and footpaths | Short trip from the city centre |
| Vaxholm | Babies | Yes, it is a town | Bus or boat, easy to turn back quickly |
| Grinda | Around four years | Awkward, trails and tree roots | Longer boat trip, plan a full day |
| Sandhamn | Around five years | Fine in the village, not on the trails | Long journey, best with an overnight stay or an early start |
Grinda and Sandhamn are the islands adults want to visit, and they are beautiful. But the boat trip is long, and a three-year-old who has had enough after half an hour has nowhere to go. It can be done, but only if the child sleeps in the pram or is old enough to have patience. Be honest with yourselves about that before you commit to a full day.
Fjäderholmarna: your first archipelago day
Fjäderholmarna is the closest island and the one best suited to a first visit. You can see the city the whole way out, the boat trip is short and you can walk round the island with a pram in half an hour. There are rocks to climb, jetties to watch fish from and grass to eat your picnic on. If the child gets tired or it starts to rain, you take the next boat home and have still had a day in the archipelago.
What usually goes wrong: parents plan too much. Fjäderholmarna is not a full day with small children, it is three hours. Go out in the morning, eat your picnic, let the child climb, go home for the lunchtime nap. That is the day your child will remember. Nobody remembers the seven-hour version fondly.
Vaxholm: the archipelago with pavements
Vaxholm is a town on an island, which removes most of what is hard about the archipelago. There is tarmac, cafés, toilets and a playground. You can get there by bus from Tekniska högskolan or by boat, and go home the other way if you want some variety. The fortress in the middle of the strait is fun to look at from the quay, and the boats docking will keep a two-year-old entertained for an hour.
Vaxholm also works when the weather is uncertain, because there are roofs to shelter under. It is the island we recommend to families with a baby and a preschooler who want that archipelago feeling without betting the whole day on it.
Grinda and Sandhamn: when your child can manage on their own
Grinda is a nature reserve with swimming rocks, trails and meadows, and it is one of the most beautiful islands you can reach in a day. But the trails have roots and stones, and a pram becomes more burden than help. From around four, when the child can walk a kilometre without being carried, it makes a lovely day. Bring life jackets; there are rocks and water everywhere.
Sandhamn is further out. The village is charming, the sandy beach is lovely, but the journey is long in both directions. In our experience it works best with an overnight stay or with children old enough to see the boat trip as part of the experience. With a three-year-old on your lap on a packed boat, it is no holiday.
Pram or baby carrier?
- A baby carrier for children under one, always. It takes no space on the boat, goes everywhere on the island and the baby falls asleep in it.
- A lightweight stroller for children between one and three, for Fjäderholmarna and Vaxholm. It folds with one hand when the boat is full.
- No pram at all for Grinda and Sandhamn. Take a rucksack instead and expect to carry for a while.
- The big pram stays at home. It will go on board, but it is in everyone's way, and on the island you will regret it at the first set of steps.
The packing list you actually need
- A life jacket the child is used to, for jetties and rocks
- Rain gear and a spare change of clothes, even in sunshine: it is windy on the water
- Sun cream, a cap and a thin long-sleeved top
- A picnic with more water than you think, and food that can be eaten with fingers
- A small first-aid bag with plasters, because rocks mean grazes
- Nappies and wet wipes in their own bag, because toilets are few and sometimes occupied
- A thin blanket to sit on and to wrap around a child who falls asleep on the way home
How to avoid the classic day that goes wrong
The days that go wrong follow a pattern: too late a start, too long a journey, too much planned, and a child who misses their nap. Turn it around. Leave early, choose a nearby island the first time, plan just one thing and let the lunchtime nap happen in the pram or on a blanket in the shade. And have one rule you stick to: when the first child cries for real, you go home, no discussion. That is what makes everyone willing to bring small children again.
How we do it with our families
Sanna has a family in Nacka with a two-year-old and a five-year-old, and this summer she took them to Fjäderholmarna on a Tuesday morning while the parents were at work. She chose the early boat so they were back for the two-year-old's nap at one. The five-year-old got to climb the rocks, the two-year-old fed ducks by the jetty, and the note to the parents said what they had eaten, that the two-year-old fell asleep on the boat home and that the five-year-old wants to go back with you. That is the kind of outing a nanny can do on a weekday, so the weekend can be something else.
Our nannies are out and about with children in Stockholm every week: parks, libraries, swimming pools and playgrounds. Would you like someone to take the afternoons? Book a free first meeting with the nanny at your home.
Read more: Day trips from Stockholm with kids · Beaches for kids in Stockholm · Things to do with kids in Stockholm · FAQ
Frequently asked questions
Which island is easiest with a pram?
Fjäderholmarna. The boat trip is short, there are gravel paths around the island and you can head home at any time without having lost a day. Vaxholm is also easy, because it is a town with pavements rather than an island you need to walk around.
Can you take a pram on the archipelago boat?
Yes, prams are allowed on Waxholmsbolaget's boats, but you lift them on board yourselves and it gets crowded on a sunny Saturday. Take the lightweight stroller or the carrier, and fold it if the crew asks. A baby carrier for children under one is what works best.
How old should a child be for a full day in the archipelago?
Babies in a carrier are the easiest of all. The hardest are two- and three-year-olds who want to walk by themselves but cannot keep it up, and who find a boat exciting for ten minutes. From four, an island you can walk around works well.
Do children need a life jacket?
Yes, on jetties and rocks. Many swimming spots and jetties have no railings, and small children are quick. A life jacket of their own that the child is used to is better than a borrowed one that chafes, and it should go on before you step onto the jetty, not once you are out there.
What if the weather turns?
Bring rain gear and a spare change of clothes even on a sunny day, because it is windier on the water than in town. If you have chosen an island close to the mainland, you can take an earlier boat home. Check current departures on the Waxholmsbolaget website before you set off.